I think I’ll fill those bit first. After putting it off for a couple of years, I decided to try and make a mandolin. You need to make caul to fit around the heel of the neck to do this, I used the scrap wood from the tone bars, and the excess from the top is a good caul for the top of the clamping. The f holes are cut too small, and the tone bars are pretty mcuh to the sizes and shapes suggested by the blueprint. Once all the clamps were on, I removed the mandolin from the bench, removed the neck, put cam clamps around the blocks and left it to dry. I was able to spot this and correct it, but I do have a large nick out of the bottom edge of the scroll slot about three-quarters the way around as a result. Add To Cart. Right through it, from one side to the other. I think the F5 scroll doubles the amount of work over making an A5 mandolin, by the time your finished. The problem was that afterwards, neither side of the finger board binding was flush, so I used some sandpaper to flush one side for gluing around the fingerboard. Once the slot was cut and filed more or less to shape, with some margns for error in case the top didn’t glue exactly where I thought it would go, it was time to glue the top on. Here you can see the finished sides in the cardboard form. Hot water does not get the binding hot enough to bend, as much as a tried. I was still nervous about going too thin, and eleceted to stay somewhere about half a mm short of the dimensions on the blueprint. F5 Pro . I’ve had to bend those pieces several times before I’ve gotten a smoothly flowing curve I’m happy with and that fits snugly around the scroll. Problem one: setting the routing attachement on the Dremel tool properly. The first thing is to establish the point on the centreline of the top where the bridge will sit: this is five and seven-eigths inches from the 15th fret cross piece. Duff Mandolins Duff F-5 Style Mandolin … I rehearsed the clamping several times, until  could get the main clamps on with the top in exactly the right place: this was well worth doing as the clamps tended to pull the top several millimetres to one side. You can see the spools being stuck to the coasters here: Gluing the sides was straightforward enough. The trick is to make sure that you leave about 1mm of kerfing protruding above the sides when you glue it in: then you can level the kerfing down to the sides with sandpaper, creating a level surface for gluing the top to. I make a carved A style, an asymmetrical two-point model and an F style mandolin. Pava’s flagship F-Style mandolin, featuring an adirondack spruce top and red maple back and sides. I’d been measuring as I carved but found it helpful to stop and really look at eactly how the carving was progressing and to mark out areas that need more – or no more – carving. Get it as soon as Fri, Mar 12. The body of the mandolin is typically made of maple. I also made some spool clamps to hold the top to the sides when gluing it on: I bought 20 bolts and wing nuts, a metre of one-inch dowel and some cork coasters. The biggest area to be careful about is around the toe of the mandolin, just to the right of where the tailpiece will be, on both the top and the back. I was scared stiff that I’d lose on of the points, but in the end it all passsed off without incident. Shaped, inlaid, fretted and finished—feels and plays great! The improved version of the classic Fender Strat Bridge. Don't make a new nut just to fix a low slot—fill it! This meant creating a template from a piece of carboard, using the blueprint so that I could then transfer the positions of the ends of the tone bars onto the inside of the top. With the tone bars glued in, I had to cut the f-holes. To convert mm to inches, divide the mm by a factor of 25.4. After finishing carving the top the next jobs are to mark out the top for the f-holes and fix the tone bars to the inside of the top. I spent some time in the garage and dug out anything that might be useful, and found a few things: an old chisel, a set square, a bradawl, some files, a very old tenon saw, a stanley knife and new blades and few G clamps. I don’t know. I already had an A-style, so I decided to make an F-style, although I knew it would be much harder. Siminoff, a renowned author and luthier, applies over four decades of experience to guide beginners to pros through detailed chapters on wood selection, cutting, carving, shaping, assembly, inlays, fretting, binding and assembly of an F-style mandolin. All challenging wood cutting, drilling and shaping is already done professionally, as well as fret leveling and dressing. I also purchased their one year membership without regret already because the free shipping is already paying for the membership. DON'T MISS A BEAT, sign up for StewMac news. The neck now pushes right through the dovetail and needs trimming flush with the mahogany. Attaching the binding is much harder than I thought it would be. Pava is currently building F, A, and oval styles out of her Austin, Tx. Exclusive: 15% OFF StewMac Luthier's Digital Caliper, Instrument Building, Maintenance and Repair Books, Plans and DVDs, Guitar Building, Repair and Setup Books, Plans and DVDs, LEARN MORE about StewMAX Membership Benefits, Torrefied Sitka Spruce Top Wood for Mandolin or Violin, Find the proper fret position with the official Stewart-MacDonald Fret Calculator, Stewart-MacDonald is PCI compliant and validated for secure e-commerce. F-STYLE BODY. I cut the dowel into sections about three quarters of an inch long, drilled holes through the middle and then glued them to the coasters. After gluing the top to the sides, its time to carve the back. String length is the standard 13.875" scale or a classical 13" scale can also be used. Before I could glue the top to the sides. I made 40 of these, which isn’t enough: if you want to glue all the kerfing in one go, you will need about 90. Recommended. $49.00. Weber Maverick Mandolin. If you are building the F5 Mandolin (Plan PL7) then slot to 13.875 scale length. F-STYLE GOLD STANDARD MANDOLIN PROTOTYPE This is an interpretation of the classic Gibson F-5 mandolin. 4.6 out of 5 stars 380. The dog-leg micro chisels from StewMac are a really good set of tools for this job, with some needle files. The earlier planning I did after cutting the slot for the scroll in the top was very helpful here as I had already thought about a lot of it. Finally I squared the sides of the fingerboard with sandpaper using the same method used to square the tone bars. Leave a Comment ». This blog documents the building of an F5 Mandolin, from a stew mac kit. The Loar LM310 F Mandolin Bag and Pro Set Up $ 479.99 $ 399.00. This style of mandolin exhibits scrolling F-shaped sound holes on each side of the strings of the instrument, much like its cousins the violin and viola. Now, routing the notch around the scroll and finishing the channel where the Dremel didn’t reach. The mandolin isn't solid birch or mahogany but veneers . The tempatiation to sit up all night and watch the glue dry was almost too much, but adfter a fairly nervous 24 hours, I finally undid the clamps, and this is the result: it looks pretty good. The F-Style is the standard for bluegrass and is renowned for its punchy presence and full, bouyant tone for … When the glue was dry I removed the excess cork, drilled out the hole and threaded two onto each bolt, finishing each with the wing nut, I made 16 spool clamps in total. Very interesting DVD very well made with alot of info . It went well. If I ever make another mandolin, nothing could persuade me to do this using anything other than a bandsaw. You will need only some basic tools and finishing supplies. On the otherside of the mandolin, things are much easier. To hold the linings in place while the glue dries you will need to modify some clothes pegs: I made one side of the peg flat, to rest against the outside of the sides, and deepened the notch on the other side to fit around the jerfing: and then added a rubber band to make the clamp strong enough to hold the lining firmly in place. I cannot put off any more the next step: routing the binding slot. You needsomething under the saw to keep it away fromthe block and sides, and then finish the job with sandpaper and a sanding stick as we did for the kerfing. I do like to keep my hands on the instrument throughout the entire building process; it helps me get a feel for the progress of each particular instrument. For my F-style mandolins I start with a CNC top and back cut for me by Smith Creek. And while you can still find bowl- and flat-backed mandolins, the vast majority of today’s instruments are descended from Gibson’s A and F. F-Style Mandolins Tools were the next concern. The next thing to get lined up properly is the height of the neck: after getting it straight, removing wood from both sides of the dovetail allows the neck to sit down into the joint until the fingerboard is at the right height: this was more tricky, and you need to keep checking the neck is still straight as you go: it took a long time to finally settle on the setup that seemed to be right. Leave a Comment ». Here you can see the contours and target thickneses marked out on the back. The Stew Mac binding laminator is well worth getting: I’m not sure this would have tunred out at all well without it, or something similar to  hold the bindings together as you apply the acetone. This is a must-have for the novice builder. The Siminoff book as some guidleine weights for various stages of the process, suggesting a finished back, cut to the right size should be 6.5oz. I’m sure I’ll never stop learning. To cut the fingerboard from the fingerboard blank, two methods are suggested: use the neck as a template, or make a template from the blueprint. In this day and age of $29 BluRay, etc. Bonding the fingerboard bindings is more difficult: the fingerboard has one tall piece of binding, with two thin pieces bonded to its edge, to create a thin black line around the bottom of the binding: this isn’t essential, but it looks nice.
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